Thursday, January 23, 2020

Pain d'Epice (French gingerbread)

"Pain d’épices has long been eaten in throughout history, although in the past it was known as honey bread – the Greek “melitounta” or “melilates”, the Roman “panis mellitus” and so forth. “Lebkuchen”, or German gingerbread, is first mentioned at the end of the 13th century." ("Pain d'Epices") Pain d'Epice is French gingerbread. It has its roots tied with 10th century China and 13th century Germany. "Texts from the 13th century cite Mi-Kong as part of the war rations of the horsemen of Genghis Khan who spread it among the Arabs...It was during the Middle Ages, during the crusades, that Westerners got to know it in the Holy Land and brought back the recipe and the spices. A first mention of "Lebkuchen", gingerbread in German, is made in Ulm in 1296 then it spreads in the monasteries of the Holy Roman Empire: Munich where a "Lebzelter" (grocer bread) pays a tax in 1370, in Nuremberg it is mentioned in 1395, Aachen, Basel, Augsburg... A text from 1453 reports that gingerbread was on the tables of the Cistercian monks of Marienthal (Alsace) during the Christmas celebrations." ("The Origin of Gingerbread")


"In the XVIIth century, the gingerbread of Reims where officiate about twenty masters "bread of grocers" is the most famous of the kingdom, the bailiff of the archbishop grants them corporate statutes in 1571, officially recognized 1596 by Henri IV. During the Renaissance, the "Lebküchler" (grocers' bread) were so numerous in Alsace that they had their own corporations whose emblem represented a pretzel bear." ("The Origin of Gingerbread") "Ever since the time of Louis XIII...the Academie Francaise completed its definition of spice-bread with one brief and proud example: pain d'epice de Rheims." (Touissant-Samat) "Pain d'épices was served at the wedding of Catherine of Medici and Henry II in 1533." (Soulas-Baron) "The first recipe for pain d'épices was invented in Reims, a city in the Alsace-Champagne-Ardenne-Lorraine region around the year 1420, when a bakery made it with rye flour, dark buckwheat honey, and spices. The bakery was allegedly inspired by the recipe of a pastry cook from the Burgundy province, and the dessert became popular after Charles VII and his mistress Agnes Sorel took a liking to it. In 1694, the Academie Francaise published its Le Dictionnaire, which confirmed that the only three main ingredients were rye flour, spices, and honey, and named the residents of Reims mangeurs de pain d'epice." ("Authentic Pain d'Epices Recipe")

Since pain d'epice is the French version of Lebkuchen, I highly recommend looking at this page: German Lebkuchen Recipe. Not only is this page informational regarding the recipe and its history, but it also provides additional information on how to create the spice mix (Lebkuchengewürz) with cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, cloves, anise, ginger, mace, and nutmeg. Another recipe can be found here, in the Ultimate Bread book.



 Works Cited

"Authentic Pain d'Epices Recipe." https://www.tasteatlas.com/pain-depices/recipe. 23 January 2020.


"Pain d'Epices." 26 December 2013. https://andyskitchenblog.wordpress.com/2013/12/26/pain-depices/. 23 January 2020.

Soulas-Baron, Catherine. "Pain d'epices: A Wonder of French Patisserie." 28 January 2016. https://www.lesavoirvivre.hk/single-post/2016/1/28/Pain-d%C3%A9pices-A-Wonder-of-French-Patisserie. 23 January 2020.


23 January 2020.

Friday, December 27, 2019

Springerl zu machen ... To Make Springerle (Anise Cookies)


        




(Grätz)







Original Recipe from 1688
 
“springerl zu machen.

NJmme ein Pfund Zucker/ ſtoß vnd faͤhe jhn/
nimb 24. Loth Mehl/ vnd miſch darunter/
nimb Zimmet/ Naͤgel/ Muſcatnuß/ vnd Lemo-
niſchaͤller/ ſchneids ſo klein als du kanſt/ miſche es
auch darunter/ machs an mit Ayrklar/ vnd Le-
moniſafft/ mach den Taig ſo dich als du kanſt/ knoͤt
jhn wol ab/ walck jhn wol auß/ am duͤnſten wie
ein Papier/ truck auff einer Seyten den Model/ laß
ein baar Stund ſtehen/ darnach bachs Semmel-
braun/ laß kuͤhl werden/ uͤberſtreichs mit einem
Eiß/ leg es wider in die Torten-Pfannen/ daß das
Eiß Blatern gibt/ laß kuͤhl werden.” (Grätz)




'To make Springerle

Take a pound of sugar, pound and sieve, take 24. Loth [one Loth is about
18 gramm] of flour, and mix it. Take cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and lemon
peels, chop it as fine as you can, and mix it among the other stuff. Add
white of eggs and lemon juice, and make the dough as firm (?) as you
can, knead it well, make it flat as thin as paper, press it into a model
from one side, allow to stand for several hours, then bake it brown like
rolls, let cool off, spread it with icing [frosting?], put it back into
the pan, so that the icing raises blisters. Let cool off.’ (Gloning)

“The cookies known today as Springerle are said to have originated at least five centuries ago in the region of Schwabia in southern Germany.” (Hudgins) Many molds for this type of cookie can be found at the Swiss National Museum, dating anywhere from 1500-1700. “The oldest-known Springerle mold, which now sits in the Swiss National Museum in Zurich, dates back to the 14th century.” (Cusick) “The earliest surviving wooden molds are flat ones dating from the sixteenth century made of fruit wood (apple, cherry, pear, plum) with intricate designs carved into them.” (Hudgins)



 “Springerle are anise-flavored cookies, pale ivory or eggshell-white in color, made from a simple dough of flour, sugar, and eggs, leavened, in former times, with hartshorn salt (baker’s ammonia, ammonium carbonate) but now more commonly with standard double-acting baking powder.” (Hudgins)

“These ‘printed’ cookies…are such an important part of the culinary traditions of southern Germany, Alsace, and parts of Bohemia and Switzerland.” (Hudgins)

 “'You must beat the dough with an electric mixer on slow speed for thirty minutes,' said a vendor of wooden Springerle molds at Munich’s open-air Christkindlmarkt held annually during Advent. 'In the old days, children were enlisted to do this task by hand. Then you knead the dough into a ball and leave it overnight in a cool, dry place. The next day, roll out the dough, press the designs into it, and cut it into shapes. Then let them dry overnight in a warm room. That’s what makes the tops stay white and the proper ‘foot’ form on the bottom.'” (Hudgins)



As my husband likes Springerle cookies with anise flavor in it, below is a recipe for Springerle cookies with anise seeds.

Modern Recipe (Block)

4 cups flour
3 cups white sugar
5 eggs
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. anise seed
1 Tbsp. ground anise (optional)

Mix all of the ingredients, except for the anise seed. Once mixed, place the mixing bowl in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Then, sprinkle flour on a board and roll out the dough. Cut out cookies with a cookie cutter. Spray non-sticking spray on a cookie pan and sprinkle the anise seeds on the pan. Place the cookies on top of the anise seeds.

Place a towel over the pan. Let the cookies sit for 1-2 days to dry (this helps the cookie keep the imprint when it bakes). Bake the cookies when the tops are dry. Heat oven to 275 degrees F. Bake for about 15 minutes. Remove the cookies from the oven when they have slightly browned.

To watch the dough being made, please visit this video. 
 

 








Works Cited

Block, Aileen and Stephen. “Springerle (Anise Cookies).” Recipes from a German Grandma.

Cusick, Marie. “Medieval Christmas Cookies Still In Fashion.” NPR. 24 December 2011.

“Gebäckmodel LM-70201.” Swiss National Museum.

“Gebäckmodel LM-15138.” Swiss National Museum.

Grätz, Gedruckt zu. Ein Koch- Und Artzney-Buch. Zweite Aufl. 1688, S. 4.

Gloning, Thomas. “SC- Springerle.” Stefan’s Florilegium. 27 January 2000.

Hamilton, Ken. “A Brief Bit of Springerle History.” 2007.

Hudgins, Sharon. “Edible Art: Springerle Cookies.” Gastronomica. IV, no.4,
2004. pp. 66-71. http://sharonhudgins.com/images/pdf/GA-Springerle.pdf. 26 December 2019.

“Springerle Roller.” The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. 19th century.

“Springerle Rolling Pin.” Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts. 1824.