16th Century German Apple Butter called Latwerge

Introduction

Latwerge is a German thickened fruit preserve that could be made with various fruits, such as pears, plums, cherries, or apples. This preserve was first used by apothecaries and used as an internal medicine. By the 16th century, it had become part of regular German cookery. In today's society, one common version of this fruit preserve is apple butter.

Gravenstein apples (one of the oldest varieties still in existence today) may have historically been used for this recipe, as these apples existed at least as early as the 17th century. This type of apple is green, moderately tart, and softens easily (which is great for making applesauce and apple butter).


The Source Recipe

Ein New Kochbuch, by Marx Rumpolt (1581)

(Rumpolt)

Confect 23. Hungarian Plum Confect/ be it white or brown. Take the sour cherries/ and take the stems from it/ set them in a kettle over the fire or coals/ and let simmer/ until they give from themselves enough juice. When they are cold then strain them through a hair cloth/ put them in a tinned fishkettle/ and set on coals/ let simmer/ and stir well/ that it doesn't scorch. And when it is half cooked/ then take a little ground cinnamon and cloves in it/ make well sweet with sugar/ and let simmer together/ until it becomes well thickened/ take away/ and let cool/ so you can lift it up/ and keep it a year or two.

28. Also (a latwerge or preserve) from apples. 

(English translation by Palmer)

Related Recipes

Le Menagier de Paris (1393)

Quince Paste: 313. Pour Faire condoignac. Prenez les coings et les pelez. Puis fendez par quartiers et ostez l’ueil et les pepins. Puis cuisier en bon vin rouge et puis soient coulez parmi une estamine. Puis prenez du miel et le faictes longuement boulir et escumer, et apres mectez vos coings dedens et remuez tresbien, et le faictes tant boulir que le miel se reviengne a moins la moictie. Puis gectez dedens pouldre d’ypocras et remuez tant qu’il soit tout froit. Puis tailliez par morceaulx et les gardez.

TO MAKE QUINCE PASTE, take quinces and peel them. Then cut in quarters and take out the eye and the seeds. Then cook in good red wine and then they are pressed through cheesecloth. Then take honey and make boil for a long time and skim it, then put in your quinces and stir well and make as to boil the honey until it is about halved. Then add powder of hypocras and stir until cold. Then cut into pieces and keep them. (Lady Alicia)

Materials

3 apples
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground clove
1/2 cup water


Procedure

Peel, core, and chop the apples. Place in a pot with the water and cook under medium-low (or simmering heat) for at least 20 minutes, or until the the apples are soft enough for mashing. A lid may be place on the pot. Drain the water. Either mash the apples with a potato masher or run the apples through a food mill. Return the mashed apples to the pot. Add in the sugar, cinnamon, and clove. Stir. Continue to cook on low heat until the mash turns into a thick, soft paste (like a thick jam) and stir occasionally. Spoon the apple butter into a jar or lidded container. Allow it to cool. Store in the refrigerator.

For video instructions, please click here.

Bibliography

Ellicott Lea, Elizabeth and William Woys Weaver. A Quaker Woman's Cookbook. Stackpole Books: Mechanicsburg, PA. 2004. P. 311. https://books.google.com/books?id=pEZh2xeCb1QC&pg=PA311&lpg=PA311&dq=latwerge+recipe+apple&source=bl&ots=VWCkjJufzq&sig=ACfU3U0jVyADhOV9EY7ZohKjWvfYcyc5wA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjS5eCKmsHpAhUQVc0KHdLYA4kQ6AEwDHoECAsQAQ#v=onepage&q=latwerge%20recipe%20apple&f=false.

Lady Alicia. "October: Apple Butter and Quince Paste." 4 October 2016. https://ladyaliciascookerybooke.wordpress.com/2016/10/04/october-apple-butter-and-quince-paste/. 21 May 2020.

Palmer, Sharon. "Ein New Kochbuch 1581." https://www.academia.edu/6272538/Ein_New_Kochbuch. 2014.

Rumpolt, Marx. Ein New Kochbuch. https://books.google.com/books?id=ne9U3i9c2DoC&pg=PR180-IA1&lpg=PR180-IA1&dq=rumpolt+latwerge+23&source=bl&ots=wS23ai-IUA&sig=ACfU3U1fQXdSIIdxMGFuUQYFXlI86AkRgw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjZgrCnlcHpAhUGV80KHS95By8Q6AEwCnoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false. 1581.