Baking Delightes: Elizabethan Applesauce: To make an Appelmoise (Applemoyse)

Introduction

In October 2019, I made my first Appelmoise (step by step video found here), based on the William How's receipt (recipe) from 1575. This recipe was published in How's book called A Proper New Booke of Cookery. For this recipe, I followed modern instructions by Daniel Myers on his Medieval Cookery website for Applemoyse.

Later in April 2020, I made my second Applemoyse (step by step video found here). This one was based on Thomas Dawson's recipe for To Make Apple Moyse from his book The Good Huswifes Jewell from 1596.

Looking back at my original Appelmoise, it looks like there are ingredients missing from the modern interpretation. So, I have decided to remake the 1575 recipe, based on my interpretation of this recipe.

Having done some prior research on apples during this time period in Europe, I have decided to use Granny Smith apples for this recipe. Previously, I think I used Red Delicious apples (whatever red apples that I had currently on hand). Gravenstein apples (one of the oldest varieties still in existence today) may have historically been used for this recipe, as these apples existed at least as early as the 17th century. This type of apple is green, moderately tart, and softens easily (which is great for making applesauce and apple butter). Unfortunately, our local grocery store does not sell Gravenstein apples (the store has a limited selection of apple varieties). So, I will be using Granny Smiths, which are also green, tart, and softens easily.

Source Recipe

To make an Appelmoise.
Take a dosyn apples, and wither roste
or boyle them, and drawe them tho-
rowe a Stayner, and the yolkes of
three or foure egges withall, and as ye
straine them, temper them with three
or foure sponefull of damaske water,
if ye will, then take and season it with
suger and halfe a dish of sweete butter, &
boyle them uopn a chafingdish in a plater, &
cast biskets or cinnamon and Ginger, 
upon them, and so serve them forth.

Related Recipes

To make Apple moyse.

ROste your apples, and when they bee rosted, pill them and streine them into a dish, and pare a dozen of Apples and cut them into a chafer, and put in a litle white wine and a litle Butter, and let them boyle till they be as soft as Pap, and stirre them a litle, and streine them to some Wardens rosted and pilled, and put in Suger, Si∣namom and Ginger, and make Diamonds of Paste and lay them in the Sauce, then scrape a little Suger vppon them in the dish.

- from Thomas Dawson's The Good Huswife's Jewell (1596)

For To Make Appulmos.

Nym appelyn and seth hem and lat hem kele and make hem thorw a clothe and on flesch dayes kast therto god fat breyt of Bef and god wyte grees and sugar and safroun and almande mylk on fysch dayes oyle de olyve and gode powdres and serve it forthe.

- Forme of Cury (c. 1390)

To mak an appillinose, tak appelles and sethe them and lett them kelle ,then fret them throughe an heryn syff on fisshe dais take almonde mylk and oile olyf ther to. and on flesshe days tak freche brothe and whit grece and sugur and put them in a pot and boile it and colour it with saffron and cast on pouders and serue it.

- A Noble Boke off Cookry (late 15th C)

To make an Apple Moye.

Take Apples, and cut them in two or foure peeces, boyle them till they be soft, and bruise them in a morter, and put thereto the yolkes of two Egs, and a little sweet butter, set them on a chafingdish of coales, and boyle them a litle, and put thereto a litle Sugar, synamon and Ginger, and so serue them in.

- The good Huswifes Handmaide for the Kitchin (1594)

Materials

12 apples

3-4 egg yolks

3-4 spoonfuls of damask water (rose water)

Sugar

4 Tbsp unsalted butter

Cinnamon

Ginger

(Above is my literal interpretation of the original recipe. However, below is my reduced interpretation of the original recipe.)

4 apples

1 egg yolk

1 Tbsp rose water

3/4 cup sugar

1 Tbsp unsalted butter

1/2 tsp cinnamon (1/8 tsp per bowl)

1/2 tsp ginger (1/8 tsp per bowl)

Procedure

Take the apples and make applesauce. In other words, peel, core, and slice the apples. Put the apples in a pot with 3/4 cup of water. Let the water simmer for about 20-30 minutes. Then, drain any excess water. For step by step video instructions for making applesauce (with a food mill, or with a potato masher), please visit here.

Remove the apples from heat. Mash the apples (or use a food mill). Stir in the egg yolk quickly (the residual heat of the pan will cook it - beware of scrambled egg). Then, add in the rose water, sugar, and butter.

Put back on medium heat, stirring regularly, until you have a fluffy, yellowish pudding. Serve in 4 small bowls. Sprinkle with cinnamon (Ceylon is preferred) and ginger on top.